LET'S face it. When it comes to designer labels, Singaporeans are spoilt for choice. Just a short walk down Orchard Road and one would be faced with a plethora of offerings from big fashion houses such as Chanel, Prada and Louis Vuitton, and whatever else they can't provide, well, the Internet will. While it's true that having more shopping options can only be a good thing for local consumers, there's that small problem: What do you do when you want something unique? And what's to stop your neighbour from buying the same pair of Christian Louboutins that you splashed out on last week?
The answer, as more local consumers are finding out, lies in a select group of local designers who go the extra mile to offer bespoke designer services - customising one-off suits, dresses, shirts and gowns for those looking for a flair of individualism.
'With blogshops and online shopping websites, consumers are able to find more interesting and exclusive fashion items and cult labels that may not be in a physical store in Singapore,' observes Dr Tambyah Siok Kuan, a senior lecturer at NUS Business School's department of marketing. 'With this deluge of fashion brands, I think consumers will become more discerning and selective in their choices. Especially consumers in their 20s who are looking to define who they are and develop their personal sense of style.'
As a result, many local designers who offer such bespoke services have witnessed a spike in demand for custom design.
'In the '80s and the '90s, people were dying for logos and they would save and save just to buy a Louis Vuitton clutch bag or something from Chanel,' recalls designer Lai Chan. 'But then the exclusive became 'massclusive' and now labels have become really quite accessible, which has inevitably created a market for bespoke designs for people who want something that is really unique.'
Adds Tan Yoong, who is best known for his intricate wedding and evening wear: 'It is precisely because there's so much ready-to-wear in the market that women find that there is a need for this sort of service if they want something that is exclusively theirs.
'Nowadays, people want outfits that are specifically designed for them, and not just for grand occasions but daily wear as well. I even once had a client who commissioned a pair of pyjamas for her and her husband!'
While the perception is that bespoke designers are mainly patronised by the 'tai tai' crowd, the reality, as many industry players have pointed out, is quite the opposite. Many young professionals, it seems, are already big supporters of this service, and their numbers are increasing rapidly.
'Most of my customers are working professionals who now understand why they have to pay more for something that is bespoke,' says designer Keith Png.
'Some girls are more experimental ... and look for things that are not available in the shops, be it here, abroad or online. Some girls are willing to pay to be different.'
One such example is emergency doctor Jade Kua.
'Suppose a ball or a party is around the corner, I may commission someone to make a gown to fit that theme,' says Dr Kua, who points out that it is now a struggle to find something foreign that's fabulously exclusive.
'I have many bespoke gowns from Singaporean designers including Francis Cheong, Jay and Madeline (Posse), Lai Chan and Wykidd Song. I have never regretted any of those purchases and I am always proud to name the designers when interviewed by the media. These gowns are certainly on par with the gowns I have from international fashion houses including Roberto Cavalli and Jenny Packham.'
'Apart from gowns I love having accessories bespoke - I'm currently pretty keen on unique jewellery. I have a beautiful pair of asymmetrical earrings from Cel by Celina Lin, some wonderfully set stones from Iro+Grace and lovely artisan jewellery by Choo Yilin. I am also a great fan of Marilyn Tan and I was thrilled when my husband got me a lovely necklace from her collection. Even the display case that houses my accessories is bespoke!'
Lawyer Choy Su Lynn who frequents Lai Chan's atelier shares Dr Kua's love for bespoke: 'If I have a party to go to and I feel like treating myself, it is definitely worth it. I think fit is one fairly distinct advantage. While I'm no expert on the technical aspects of clothesmaking, I see quite a difference between something that is bespoke and bought off the rack. It might be an extra button here, or a hook there; these made-to-measure pieces fall in the right way and fit you like a glove, which is very important.'
In recent years, some discerning men have started to jump on the bespoke bandwagon. Just ask Kevin Seah, who after successfully building a name for himself as a wedding gown designer, started a bespoke designer tailoring service for men, going one up on traditional tailors by adding his fashion design sentiments to tailor-made shirts and suits.
'I've started to market this service more aggressively now because I feel that it's the right time and the local men are ready for it,' he says. 'Everybody wants to look good but nobody is perfect. Ready-to-wear can't fix those imperfections but bespoke tailoring can, be it by adding a bit of padding to even out uneven shoulders or cutting the trousers in a way that flatters bow-legged men.'
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This article was first published in The Business Times.
