MILAN has long claimed its place among the top fashion capitals of the world, but calendar woes have fashionistas asking whether it is losing influence.
While top names like Giorgio Armani, Gucci and Versace gave it their all at the autumn/winter 2010-2011 catwalk shows and won wide praise for their lines, the talk of fashion week has centred on the intensive schedule of its cramped calendar.
Organisers were left scrambling to fit the major names into four days out of the Feb 24 - March 1 run after powerful fashion editor, Vogue's Anna Wintour, reportedly said she planned to shorten her attendance in order to go to Paris fashion week and then the Oscars in Los Angeles.
Both local and international press have written about the "Wintour effect"on the northern Italian city, and how designers were bowing to demands of the international press.
Mr Mario Boselli, chairman of Italy's National Chamber of Fashion – which organises Milan fashion week – said Italian designers often showed they were not conscious of their power "and instead give in to the pressure of the foreign press”.
"I think the big maisons should speak up. We are smaller but we had to schedule our show accordingly with the calendar,"said Mr Maurizio Modica, one of the designers at Frankie Morello. "The influence of Anna Wintour? It's a reality.”
Milan has long relied on its status of the same big-name brands, which have been around for decades and whose creations are lapped up around the world.
But main rival fashion capitals New York and Paris have longer schedules this season.
Industry observers also note there have been few internationally recognised young designers to emerge from Milan in the last few years.
PRACTICAL PROBLEMS
Many buyers and fashion reporters have complained about the practical problems of a shortened schedule, with shows running at least 30 minutes late.
They said shows were usually more punctual at the preceding London fashion week.
"It's extremely hard and it's very disappointing to have to fit so much into four days,"
said Ms Marigay McKee, fashion and beauty director at Britain's Harrods store.
Wintour has been known to curtail her stay in Milan before, as well as in Paris – but the French capital has not changed its calendar as a result, and shows there run for nine days.
Several designers and businessmen have voiced concern that a short show week would reduce the strength of Italy's fashion industry, especially at a time when the economic crisis has hit demand.
Turnover for the sector fell 15 per cent last year to 56.5 billion euros (S$107 billion).
An improvement is forecast for this year.
