As the world's most populous Muslim country, Indonesia has strong demand for clothing that adheres to religious rules emphasising modesty for women.

But as the stylish, colourful and cool outfits at Jakarta Fashion Week showed, the South-east Asian nation also aims to be the global leader in the Muslim fashion industry that is worth nearly US$100 billion (S$124 billion) by some estimates.

Indonesia's government is championing young designers and the garment trade, which employs more than three million people and contributes about US$15 billion to the economy, reported Reuters.

Said Indonesia's Tourism and Creative Economy Minister Mari Pangestu: "We can be the trend-setter. We have the vision and mission that Indonesia can be the capital of Muslim fashion."

The enforcement of clothing rules actually range from strict in Saudi Arabia and Afghanistan to more moderate in Malaysia and Indonesia.

Head dresses are compulsory in any case and outfits should not be tight or see-through, but the three young Indonesians who kicked off Jakarta Fashion Week were clearly challenging stereotypes with their ready-to-wear collections.

Designer Nur Zahra showed folk designs in organic materials with natural colours, mainly indigo and khaki.

Designer Jenahara Nasution's Eastern Opulence line was sleekly cut, with linings of flowing organdy and chiffon silk, accented with traditional Tasikmalaya embroidery from West Java.

Designer Dian Wahyu Utami's Dian Pelangi brand delved into the 1960s with bursts of bright colours in batik prints.

The three designers, all participants in a government programme to develop young talent, said they wanted to create clothes with broad appeal, including for women in Western countries.

Said Nasution, 27: "To make Muslim wear so the people look cool has always been my mission."

Her Jenahara brand is in talks with an agent from Milan to market the collection in Italy, Russia and Dubai.

Designer Wahyu Utami, whose parents started the Dian Pelangi brand 22 years ago, using her first name, went to her first show five years ago in Melbourne, Australia.

There was a "wonderful response" and interest in her next collections, she said.

"I realised there is international potential for this Muslim fashion," she said.

Dian Pelangi has a branch in Malaysia and is expanding into Singapore and Brunei.

It has buyers in Australia, Egypt, the United Arab Emirates, Jordan and Kuwait. And the collections were also sold at shows in France, Hungary and other European countries.

Said Ms Wahyu Utami: "We haven't reached the United States yet, so that is our next target."

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