Anna Sui has always been ahead of her time.
The Chinese-American designer was an advocate of the boho chic look long before it became a fashion trend - after all, she built her brand in the 1980s on her penchant for mixing and matching clashing prints, and the vintage with the new.
And long before designers started collaborating on or launching make-up collections - as is the case of Alber Elbaz, Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors this year - she launched her first collection with Japanese cosmetics maker Albion in 1997.
The youthful-looking 58-year-old was in town on Monday to mark the make-up brand's 15th anniversary and for a preview of her fall 2013 make-up and fashion collections. Her 24-hour stopover here was part of a South-east Asian tour to commemorate the anniversary.
When she embarked on her make-up line, her intention was for it to serve as "accessories" that complemented her fashion line.
In an interview with Urban, she says: "Not everyone can afford or find Anna Sui fashion. So my job is to put the same amount of fantasy found on the runway into say, a tube of lipstick, so that the customer can bring back something from my world."
The make-up brand's most iconic offering, the Ring Rouge, is a perfect example of how Sui weaves fashion elements into her cosmetics.
Inspired by the vintage Bakelite rings that she collects from American flea markets, the Ring Rouge ($39) has a secret compartment that flips open to reveal a tiny pot of lipstick. Different designs are launched almost every year; a commemorative limited-edition one with a huge purple 'gemstone' will be available here from Aug 12. The rouge inside comes in eight shades.
Sui's cosmetics empire includes perfumes (she is on to her 15th fragrance: La Vie De Boheme, $100 for 50ml, available from Sept 1) and skincare (launched in 2000, it comprises moisturising, whitening and balancing lines). Today, these products are stocked in more than 200 counters globally, including Canada, China and South Korea.
Sui's fashion label, which she started out of her apartment in New York, is currently carried in more than 65 boutiques across 30 markets, including Austria, China, Germany and Morocco.
After 38 years in the fashion business, Sui says she still revels in the challenges it presents.
"It is a pleasure. I can use everything that I am obsessed with in my designs, and it gives me a reason to learn more about another culture."
For example, Peranakan culture is something Sui became interested in when she was here seven years ago (to promote her third perfume Dolly Girl On The Beach), after spotting a yellow antique Peranakan ceramic item on a poster at the National Museum.
So on this trip, she asked for a visit to the Peranakan Museum to be included in her itinerary. "I've done some research and seen how beautiful their ornaments and headpieces are. I want to find out more about the colours and patterns of the culture."
As to whether one can expect a Peranakan-inspired collection in the near future, she says: "You'll never know. After all, I'm known for mixing worlds in my designs and making them distinctly Anna Sui."
In recent years, the designer has been looking beyond fashion and beauty to keep herself busy.
In 2011, she teamed up with American luggage brand Tumi for a capsule collection of travel bags and suitcases decorated with her signature black and purple butterflies. The collaboration was so well-received, Sui followed up with a Spring 2013 collection emblazoned with the watercolour floral prints from her Spring 2009 runway show.
Last year, she designed two duffle bags with American leather goods maker Coach. She also recently signed on with Fila China for a sportswear line to be launched in Spring 2014.
Up next - Sui hopes to venture into interior design. "People are always asking to buy the fixtures from the beauty counters and furniture from my boutiques," she says.
Her flagship boutique in New York's Soho area, is filled with black Victorian lacquered furniture and papier mache doll heads set against purple walls. It has inspired the look of her make-up line, with products coming in black bottles, tubes and canisters carved with elaborate roses, butterflies and doll faces.
"I'd love to do furniture, bedsheets, towels and wallpaper once I find the right licensee."
With her strong fan base, it seems likely that Sui will be able to create a successful lifestyle brand.
"Some of my Japanese fans have more Anna Sui products than I," she quips. "When they come see me, they'll be in Anna Sui from head to toe, and they'll even bring along their limited-edition Anna Sui Tumi luggage.
"Others will e-mail me pictures of their rooms painted in Anna Sui purple, lined with shelves filled with Anna Sui products.
"It is amazing to have such a following."
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