It is Italian designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli, first showing for Valentino since the main man himself retired. They have taken over the reigns from Alessandra Facchinetti, who was ousted from the seat in 2008 after just three shows (two ready-to-wear shows and one haute couture collection). But reception for the show during the Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2009 was a bit less than enthusiastic.

Writer Cathy Horyn for the New York Times said: "In contrast to the scene around the show, the clothes produced absolutely no emotion. They were dead on arrival, starting with the first red coat. Much work went into that sun ray draping, but the effect seemed wooden, lifeless. These clothes were designed to please Valentino, to reflect his legacy and archive, and for the most part they were just that — imitations."

Nevertheless, details were technically flawless and it was more than clear the new designers paid tribute to Valentino's flair for creating a beautiful dress.

And it is clear that Valentino himself approved of the two designers taking their inspiration from his past work. He said in an interview that  “they (Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccioli) are two serious capable professionals that I had alongside me for many years. They always demonstrated an enormous respect and love for my work.

“There is an existing archive with thousands of dresses where they can draw and take inspiration from to create a Valentino product that is relevant today."