Four French grande dames are enjoying a second flush of youth – and giving Singaporeans in the know good reason to cheer.
They are high-end fashion houses Balenciaga, Balmain, Givenchy and Lanvin, which fell out of favour in the 1990s but have now returned to form.
The venerable names are now among the most raved-about fashion houses by the fashion press – all four made the top 10 list of spring/summer 2010 collections on style.com, Vogue magazine’s online portal.
Last year, The New York Times described Balenciaga as “one of the most innovative labels today alongside Prada” and Balmain togs as being “all over the Internet”.
Style.com, meanwhile, described Givenchy designer Riccardo Tisci as one of the “elite designers who matter most in Paris” and Lanvin artistic director Alber Elbaz’s latest offerings as a “gilding of genius”.
Happily for Singapore devotees, all four labels will have a greater presence here this year.
Multi-label store Tribeca, which has been carrying Balmain at its Forum outlet, will also stock the French label at its second branch in the Mandarin Gallery when it opens on Monday.
The new 1,800 sq ft store will feature a larger range of key Balmain runway looks.
Balenciaga, which had a 850sqft boutique on the second floor of Hilton Singapore since 2006, has moved to a much bigger 2,395 sq ft ground-floor store within the same hotel.
It was opened by luxury retail chain Club21 last month.
Club 21 is also opening a 2,356sq ft Lanvin store in Hilton Singapore on Jan22.
This replaces the chain’s temporary Comme des Garcons’ Black store.
The retailer has become Lanvin’s sole franchise partner here since Lanvin Singapore’s boutique in Wisma Atria closed last November.
Haute French label Givenchy will make its way to town in August.
Home-grown fashion and lifestyle group FJ Benjamin inked a deal with the LVMH-owned brand last month to be its exclusive distributor and retailer here.
A SELECT FEW
In Singapore, the four brands have been serving a niche market.
For example, only a small range of about 30 Givenchy accessories such as scarves, heels and handbags are available at On Pedder in Takashimaya Shopping Centre.
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The multi-label luxury accessories store has been selling the brand’s accessories here and in Hong Kong since 2007.
Prices range from $615 for a scarf to $4,060 for a handbag (right).
When the 1,500 sq ft standalone Givenchy boutique is unveiled in Paragon in August, it will stock both men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and accessory lines from fall/winter 2010.
As for Balmain, its womenswear has been sold exclusively at Tribeca’s 1,200sq ft Forum store since 2008.
Tribeca retail operations manager Anne Yong, 34, says: “Initially, only well-travelled and fashion-conscious customers were excited that we had brought in Balmain.
“Today, we have a mix of customers who want dramatic red-carpet looks and tuxedo jackets as well as jeans.”
A pair of Balmain jeans cost about $2,800 while gowns start from $25,000.
Meanwhile, Balenciaga’s new store stocks the label’s cruise 2010 collection, women’s ready-to-wear and men’s and women’s leather accessories.
Balenciaga.edition, a collection of modern-day takes on founder Cristobal Balenciaga’s haute couture archives, also makes its debut.
Prices for T-shirts start from $439, dresses from $3,199 and leather bags from $2,199.
As for Lanvin, Club 21 has been stocking a modest collection of its men’s shoes and bags at the Club21Men boutique at Four Seasons Hotel since 2008.
From Jan 22, however, the full range of the brand’s products will be available at the Hilton Singapore store.
This includes men’s and women’s ready-to-wear, shoes, bags and accessories such as jewellery, small leather goods and the brand’s signature porcelain dolls.
Women’s dresses will start from $900, blouses from $1,700 and T-shirts from $566. For menswear, suits will start from $3,400 and tops from $300.
Lanvin’s menswear designer Lucas Ossendrijver told Urban in an e-mail interview: “I find that the average Asian consumer is curious and open-minded towards new things – something which I appreciate very much.”
HOUSE HISTORY
Balenciaga
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Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga opened his first boutique in Spain in 1914.
The mentor of designer Hubert de Givenchy, Balenciaga was referred to as “the master of us all” by Christian Dior.
His famous creations include the cocoon dress, balloon skirt, babydoll dress and square coat.
Creative director Nicolas Ghesquiere has infused the house’s signature structural shapes with his trademark sci-fi stamp since taking over the reins from Dutch designer Josephus Melchior Thimister in 1997.
His celebrity clientele includes Vogue editor Anna Wintour and actresses Jennifer Connelly and Nicole Kidman.
Now owned by the Gucci group, the house is best known for its coloured lambskin Motorcycle bags adorned with metal hardware (above).
Lanvin
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One of the most influential fashion houses of the 1920s and 1930s, this French fashion house was credited with creating the flapper dress.
Founder Jeanne Lanvin’s use of jewel tones (below, model in red) and intricate embroidery and beading (above) are still signatures of the house today.
Led by artistic director Alber Elbaz since 2002, the label has reclaimed its former glory.
Fashion critic Sarah Mower of style.com described its spring/summer 2010 collection as “incredible”.
Lanvin also has a famous fan in Michelle Obama.
She was photographed in May last year volunteering at a Washington DC food bank shod in suede Lanvin sneakers that reportedly cost US$540 (S$755).
Givenchy
The house of Givenchy was founded in 1952 by designer Hubert de Givenchy.
Prior to his retirement in 1995, it posted total sales of US$176million in 1993, making it LVMH’s second largest apparel division after Christian Dior at the time.
The creative reins were handed to John Galliano (before he joined Christian Dior) and subsequently to Alexander McQueen.
In 2005, Riccardo Tisci succeeded as chief womenswear designer.
His knack for dark, gothic touches and space-age minimalism (above) has garnered praise from influential fashion critics including Cathy Horyn of The New York Times.
Balmain
Pierre Balmain founded his house in 1945 and, along with Dior and Balenciaga, was credited with re-energising couture dressing after World War II.
Famous clients included Brigitte Bardot.
After his death in 1982, the house was led by Oscar de la Renta from 1993 to 2001.
This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.
