You could call Z Zegna, the younger line of Italian luxury label Ermenegildo Zegna, a young upstart. Launched just five years ago, it has already blasted out of the main line's shadow.
The experimental men's label has developed enough clout to showcase its spring/summer 2010 collection at Milan Men's Fashion Week in June - the first time it had done so at home.
In Singapore, Z Zegna made its mark by unveiling its first store in South-east Asia in Ion Orchard two months ago.
The 145 sq m standalone store complements the two Ermenegildo Zegna boutiques in Ion and Paragon.
Founded in 1910, the main line is renowned as a men's fine clothing specialist. The Italian house is best-known for its high-quality wool suits and made-to-measure service.
Ermenegildo Zegna also manufactures suits for labels such as Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Tom Ford.
Z Zegna's creative director Alessandro Sartoli (inset) says the aim is for the diffusion label 'to be a standalone brand in its own right'.
The 41-year-old, who was in town for the official opening of the Z Zegna store, says: 'Z Zegna does not just offer the same suits at Ermenegildo Zegna for a lower price. It targets a different customer, (from) a younger group (and) who is not necessarily a customer of the family yet.'
The brand's light two-piece suits start from $1,600, compared to $3,500 for classic suits at Ermenegildo Zegna, while dress shirts are from $400, compared to $500 at the main line.
Sartoli adds that he designs Z Zegna for 'intellectual men with creative passions'.
'They love architecture, movies, photography and art. Our clothes are for someone who cares about appearances but wants his own identity.'
Sartoli, who has helmed the label since its inception, has imbued it with the main line's famed fabric innovation while injecting newfangled cool by experimenting with edgier sportswear fabrics.
His trademark aesthetics of twisted proportions is also evident.
He shares more about the Z Zegna DNA.
What inspires your work for Z Zegna?
Italian contemporary art and architecture. For spring/summer 2010, I wanted to do a street dandy theme by mixing classic English, French and Italian styles while updating these with lightweight fabrics, laser-cut suits, unlined outerwear and a slimmer silhouette.
What makes Z Zegna relevant for a tropical climate like Singapore's?
Our fabric innovations. For spring/summer 2010, outerwear is unlined and we have used light cotton silk, which is typically a shirt material, on outerwear. We have tweaked it to get an organic texture and treated it to be hardy and resistant.
Describe your silhouette for spring/summer 2010.
Z Zegna's silhouette for summer is tall, lean and flattering. Our double-breasted jackets are longer with square shoulders and the pants are narrow and cropped to show off high-cut boots.
Which designer from the past inspires you and why?
My fashion icon is Coco Chanel.
She revolutionised fashion with new silhouettes and fabrics and her clothes are still relevant today.
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This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.
