Ann Teoh Fashion Studio
#03-11/12 Delfi Orchard
402 Orchard Road
Tel 6887-4610
www.annteoh.com

A WEDDING, says Ann Teoh, is not about a 'meringue or a big dress with icing on it' - particularly when the bride is not a giddy young thing. 'It's about wearing something that you really like; a nice dress with a twist, something that suits your personality,' she emphasises.

The design veteran and owner of Ann Teoh Fashion Studio is known among well-heeled locals and the expatriate community for the flattering evening gowns, cocktail dresses and workwear that she has been crafting for more than 20 years. After her store moved from Mandarin Gallery to bridal hotspot Delfi Orchard about a year and a half ago, however, she was motivated to come up with a bridal range, which she launched a few weeks ago. 'Every second person who walks in asks whether we have a bridal line, so I decided to officially start one,' she explains, laughing.

It's as good a time as any. The bridal-gown industry, as Ms Teoh has discovered, is somewhat recession-proof. 'We've been lucky because we haven't really felt the recession. I think if people want to save, they will save on something else. When it comes to the dress, they will spend.'

With her sensitive approach to weddings, it's not surprising that much of the bridal clientele the fashion designer draws is rather more demanding, design-wise: women who are of a more mature age, who are pregnant, or who are into their second or third marriage, for instance. 'They are more comfortable talking to us about their likes and dislikes, whereas other shops tend to tell them what to wear,' says Ms Teoh, sharing that her oldest customer was a 70-year-old, who wandered 'quite shyly' into her shop. 'At that age, they don't want to look at standard packages, they don't want to wear princess dresses and corsets, and they don't want someone to push a dress down their throat.'

What these brides want - and get, at Ann Teoh Fashion Studio - are gowns that will 'make them beautiful' and that are 'clean, fashion and fun'. Often made of flowing chiffon, the bespoke creations, which range from about $1,800 to $4,800, are embellished with details such as delicate ruching and the occasional, unique glittery accessory or two that Ms Teoh herself hand-picks on regular trips to Paris and Hong Kong. She laments that travel is a necessity because there are 'no updates here'. 'It's so hard to be creative because there are so few fabric suppliers and you can't even buy things like built-in cups and corsets locally.'

The emphasis is on the cut and the quality of the sewing, which is done by a team of seamstresses who have been working with the designer for almost 20 years. 'I don't want to put a lot of stuff on my dresses; it's the way they are made that makes a lot of difference in accentuating the bride's figure and hiding her figure faults,' she says. 'Older brides sometimes have a lot to conceal - I've experienced many requests from women to hide their arms, tummies and thighs. They always have in mind that they should wear something with long sleeves, a jacket and skirt . . . wrong!'

At Ms Teoh's studio, figure-conscious women are encouraged to try, say, luxuriously embroidered off-shoulder cowl-necked tops that reveal the decolletage but downplay the arms, or pantsuits comprising a sexy top and swishy palazzo-style pants that are both pretty and practical.

Still, the popularity of the shop among older women does not mean that it does not - and cannot - attract a younger clientele. Ms Teoh also has processions of brides in their 20s visiting her studio for her edgier designs, such as the couture-style column tube dress with an avant-garde poufball top that she recently created for one young bride.

It's this versatility that the designer believes is the icing on the cake, in a competitive environment. She says: 'Not only do I take care of the bride, I can take of her mother and mother-in-law too!'

Love, Yu
8 Mohamed Sultan Road, #03-01
Tel 6235-7781
www.weloveyu.com

BACK in the old days, how grand a wedding was would often be reflected in the design of the wedding dress. A celebration worth its weight in gold, for instance, would probably have featured a bride in an equally opulent gown that, if not quite weighed down by gold, would be heavily embellished with embroidery, beading and sequins. But as time diluted tradition and more casual venues became popular, modern weddings - both literally and metaphorically - lightened up loads.

Fashion designer Tang Ee-Lyn of the local label Yu, which specialises in romantic party dresses without the bells and whistles, is one who has experienced this shift. Since Yu was set up in 2006, it has seen a 'significant increase' in requests for bespoke bridal dresses. 'I've realised that there are many women who want the glamour and elegance of an outfit but without the elaborate beading that typically comes with such formal wear,' says Ms Tang, who cites 'a lot of lawyers and bankers in their 20s' as her main clientele.

To cater to the demand, the designer launched a bridal line called Love, Yu about a month ago in a cosy, homey studio within a Mohamed Sultan shophouse where 'you won't have strangers walking past all the time'. The line comprises enchanting gowns that employ lots of soft layering, draping and ruching in place of pearls or sequins. Yes, there's the odd stone-encrusted or lace-accented collar or waist, but overall the look is more Grecian goddess than pampered princess - though Ms Tang expresses respect for the traditional cuts: 'They're nice, but just not my style.'

Even though she's sticking to pared-down looks for her bridal line, however, the designer is relishing the creative opportunities that producing the range has brought. 'It gives me more room to explore fabrics that I would not be able to use for my off-the-rack pieces because of cost constraints,' she explains. 'For example, I can use heavy silk crepe now, which costs about $100 per metre. I can also do finer ruching that only makes sense for per-piece dresses.'

Designs from the Love, Yu line start from $780 for a simple gown to $2,880 for a bridal package - prices which Ms Tang feels won't hit pockets too hard. 'Girls in general prefer things that are customised just for them. As long as it's not a crazy price, they are happy paying for it,' she says.

Going for a well-made bespoke piece also offers more value than buying a brand-name dress off the rack, feels the designer. 'Take Vera Wang - a dress from her would cost about $8,000 to $10,000. If you were to get a dress here, it would be cheaper yet be made just for you. You would be paying for the workmanship rather than just going for a brand and paying a premium for it.'

It's good advice, given the current economic situation. But brides-to-be who want to get a complete picture of the sort of workmanship Ms Tang is referring to will have to wait until October, when the designer plans to show her first complete bridal collection at Braise restaurant on Sentosa. As with her dresses, the showcase will be luxe but a little unconventional. 'The look and feel of the day will be very different from the usual typical hotel wedding show,' she says. 'The partners that I am going to bring in will specialise in mid to high-end personalised wedding favours, flower arrangements et cetera. I don't think enough people know about such services here.'

This article was first published in The Business Times