THROUGHOUT the years, perspiration and lots of hard money have gone into efforts to make Malaysian batik accepted internationally. While intentions have been noble, the lack of inspiration or proper execution have often hampered its progress.
And it appears that the mindset has not changed very much in the design of batik – dramatic pieces that are over-the-top, or colourful messes are still being churned out.
However, it would seem that the batik that fulfils the criteria for global success has finally surfaced, thanks to Datin Noor Fatimah Ishak – owner, designer and managing director of Deanoor International (M) Sdn Bhd.
The endorsements have been many but her latest showing at the recently concluded Miami Fashion Week last month was proof that our traditional fabric can indeed go places.
If the name doesn’t ring a bell, it’s because the local market has never been Noor Fatimah’s main focus.
“I started out locally in 1998 and fine-tuned my batik designs to prepare for my foray into the overseas market. Then, I was already thinking of making my designs work in the international market. I’ve never sought publicity locally nor given an interview to the local press before. You are the first,” pronounces Noor Fatimah at her showroom in Kuala Lumpur soon after her return from Miami.
The spacious exhibition area is tastefully decorated to highlight the various collections and products she has created, including batik on accessories like shoes and handbags, and jewellery.
Before you start picking up the phone to ask for directions, the shop is not open to the public. The only ones allowed in are foreign trade buyers. Her main “local” clientele are the members of the Brunei Royal family!
A large part of the business is conducted in Milan, Italy, where she has a showroom and an agent. More importantly, the only fabric that she uses is Italian silk; she has made arrangements to have her prints produced there.
“I am not into retail. I concentrate on the designs, what I call ‘master pieces’ (the master print) and show them off to the fashion houses. I also have private showings with static models dressed in clothes done in master pieces for the buyers and the fashion houses in Milan. If they place orders with me, I get local batik craftsman to come up with the hand-crafted batik fabric,” explains Noor Fatimah, who was born in Kedah.
She adds that they sometimes order the designs in various colours and inform her about the colour trends for a particular season. She emphasises that all her designs only cater for the spring season.
The big fashion houses are certainly enamoured of her “master pieces”, with a number of Italian-based houses signing up for her batik. Due to contractual obligations, their names cannot be revealed, save for Mariella Burani. Another famous designer also indirectly credited Noor Fatimah’s prints in the press release of one of his collections.
“I’ve always thought that if a design and print is strong enough, it makes the clothes, even if it’s a simple dress,” says Noor Fatimah.
This savvy businesswoman also varies her designs to cater to the region. She has different collections for Europe, the Middle East and the United States.
“The Europeans like lots of black and white; for the States, it’s usually very colourful while the Middle East market likes lots of detailing.”
She already has a showroom and an agent in Dubai, in the United Arab Emirates. A few days before the Miami show, she was in the city as part of a select Malaysian designer showcase organised by the Malaysia External Trade Development Corporation (Matrade). If you look past the batik prints, you would say her collection of clothes on display could also pass for the international market.
“I’ve received quite a lot of enquiries and compliments for the clothes. They probably look good because I designed them for someone like me, for real women. When Isetan approached me a few years back to have my collection in their store, I was quite reluctant. But they were very persistent, so I agreed, on the condition that I only supplied the clothes and they took care of the sales.
“Matrade is encouraging me to set up boutiques because I have already established my brand overseas,” says Noor Fatimah. “Maybe in a few years’ time, I will consider it.”
She’s also exploring the possibility of venturing into the Japanese market by coming up with designs for the kimono; there’s a striking design displayed in her showroom.
This shows that stylised batik prints can translate well into kimonos, if done right. She also did one for the Miami show – a simple, contemporary piece to be worn at the beach or the pool side. That proved a hit.
Noor Fatimah’s favourite is the butterfly, and a stylised version of it is used in her company logo. She explains that she has always found the colours and patterns of the butterfly to be captivating and inspirational.
“I’m inspired by my travels, everything I see and by nature, too,” she adds.
The youthful-looking Noor Fatimah, who is married to a high-ranking officer in the Malaysian Armed Forces, laughed when asked if her children missed her as she often travelled overseas.
“My children are all grown up. My daughter is 20 while my son is 17. I had my first child after 11 years of marriage. I’m blessed to have a wonderful, caring and understanding husband,” beams Noor Fatimah, showing off glossy photographs of her family.
More plaudits seem to be heading her way as she has been invited to show her designs at the upcoming Mercedes Benz Fashion Weeks for spring in Miami and New York. And, if things work out, a role in a major competition, too.
Remember, you read it first in these pages. -The Star/ANN
