Breaking into the tough world of fashion is no easy feat, but the success of London-based, Greek-born designer Mary Katrantzou has been nothing short of breathtaking.

Her first capsule collection of eight dresses, launched at her Master of Arts graduation fashion show at London’s Central Saint Martins in 2008, was immediately picked up by some of the most influential boutiques. These included Paris’ Colette, Hong Kong’s Joyce and Browns of London.

With just three full-fledged fashion shows under her belt, her eponymous label has already become synonymous with digital print, where computer programmes are used to manipulate colours and patterns. She uses this technique to create eye-popping, multi-hued pieces.

Her futuristic prints of giant perfume bottles and colourful gemstones on shift dresses stand out like beacons among the sea of black and white pieces that fashionistas tend to favour.

“I wrote my first retail orders on the back of my press release because I wasn’t expecting any orders for my clothes,” says the 27-year-old designer candidly.

Since those early days, her business has grown tenfold, with sales orders reaching £460,000 ($924,000) this season.

She was in town last month to stage a show at the inaugural Asia Fashion Exchange’s Star Creation competition gala dinner.

Her designs are available in 70 boutiques in 30 countries. In Singapore, her dresses are available at En Vie de Pois in Ion Orchard with prices ranging from $1,699 to $3,699.

In February, Katrantzou launched a capsule collection with high-street chain Topshop comprising white jersey T-shirt dresses featuring the giant jewellery graphics that launched her into fame at her graduation show.

The collection sold out at Topshop stores around the world, including Singapore, and she is in talks to do a second collection for the brand.

She says: “I couldn’t take on T-shirt orders because they had to be manufactured on a much bigger scale than my main line.

“So when Topshop approached me to do T-shirt dresses with my prints, I was really excited. It’s great to walk down London’s Oxford Street and see a girl who would not be able to afford my main line wearing my Topshop dresses.”

Katrantzou tells Urban more about what it takes to be fashion’s next big thing.

You have a very focused speciality – digital prints. How did you realise so quickly this would be key to your identity as a designer?

Visually, I wanted to do prints that are hyper-real and that you would not be able to do with the traditional screenprint process.

I liked the idea of trompe l’oeil (French for trick the eye, referring to an art technique). So I took oversized jewellery and perfume bottles and played around with how these motifs could fit on female contours.

As soon as I started creating a distinct style with digital print, it became my focus to develop it more.

What do you think makes digital print stand out from the crowd?

It is a very laborious process – every dress uses a different print. I create a specific print for every silhouette and I cannot use it for other designs.

There is also a fine line as I can’t have too much of the pattern and print, but my designs still have to be bold, because that is what people like.

What is the biggest challenge you have faced so far?

Being diverse and growing the brand.

When I started out, I had eight dresses and had to turn that into a real line that also included jackets, skirts, trousers and so on.

It is also a challenge to be focused and stay in sync with my identity.

Please share some pearls of wisdom with all the young designers out there struggling to make it.

Have patience and focus. I took time to understand what it was about my graduate collection that people found interesting.

When I saw there was interest in digital print, I saw that there was a future there.
You also really need time to get people interested in you and learn about you, so never feel too down when things donot go your way at the beginning.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.