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Sat, Feb 04, 2012
Urban, The Straits Times
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Telling the difference between suit jackets/blazers, wedges/espadrilles
by Rohaizatul Azhar & Ian Lee

SUIT JACKETS AND BLAZERS

While it is acceptable to call all blazers jackets, the same cannot be done in reverse.

Nowadays, a blazer has come to mean anything that has sleeves and lapels and is worn with unmatched pants, but there are key differences between the two.

Blazer (above)

This is a jacket with gold or silver buttons and is cut to resemble a suit jacket. Blazers are often featured as part of uniforms.

Originally a classically cut double-breasted navy blue jacket, the blazer now comes in varying styles, cuts and colours.

Suit jacket (above)

This, on the other hand, will always be made of finer fabrics, most commonly worsted wool.

They are meticulously made to ensure a clean silhouette and are never skin-tight or body-hugging.

A suit jacket, as the name suggests, is matched exactly in the same colour as the pants to comprise a suit.

In traditional designs, the suit jacket is single-vented.

This means the slit is placed at the bottom rear, or tail, of the jacket.

Modern designs, however, may have jackets with single or side vents, or not have vents at all.

PLAID AND TARTAN

While there is much confusion surrounding the meaning of plaid and tartan, it is okay to use the two terms interchangeably.

They both refer to checks made up of horizontal and vertical bands in multiple colours crossing each other.

A key feature is that visible diagonal lines with different colours cross to give the appearance of new colours (above).

They are particularly associated with Scotland because Scottish kilts almost always bear the pattern.

Pattern purists may want to check this out, though: Plaid is actually the North American term for tartan.

In Scotland, plaid refers specifically to a tartan cloth slung over the left shoulder by Highlanders or a blanket bearing tartan prints.

ESPADRILLES AND WEDGES

Espadrilles refer to the style of the footwear while wedges are usually meant to describe the heel type.

Sole:

Espadrilles are casual flats or high-heel sandals. They usually have a canvas or cotton fabric upper and a flexible sole made of rope or synthetic materials cast to resemble rope.

This rope (or faux rope) sole is the defining characteristic of an espadrille, which originated in the French Pyrenees in the early 14th century and was made from a tough grass called espardenya.

The soles of espadrilles may be flat, platform or wedge-shaped.

Heel:

Wedges refer to shoes with heels that run the length of the shoe in the shape of a wedge.

Shoes with wedge heels are often called wedges.

The design of the wedge shoe is often credited to Italian luxury shoemaker, Salvatore Ferragamo, in 1936 when he, experimenting with materials such as string and straw, produced wedge heel shoes as orthopedic footwear.

It is easy, however, to confuse platforms with wedges.

While wedges may have platform heels, the two features do not always appear together.

When they do, they are known as platform wedges.

Wedge heels can be made out of artificial wood-grain, be covered with jute rope, as is the case with espadrilles, or simply look like an extension of the sole because the upper is in the same colour.

CHANEL 2.55

They all have the distinctive quilt patterning, boxy shape and, of course, the double-chain shoulder straps.

They are all Chanel’s signature flap-style handbags – but just which model they actually are can cause confusion, even among double-C devotees.

These days, everyone calls such bags the 2.55.

This was the name of the first version released in February 1955, hence its name. Over the years, 2.55 has become a loosely accepted umbrella term referring to three variations: timeless classic flap bags, reissue 2.55s and 2.55s.

The classic flap bag came after the original 2.55, being introduced only in the 1980s by designer Karl Lagerfeld.

Then, in Feb 2005, Lagerfeld re-made the 2.55 that Coco Chanel first made in 1955, to commemorate the bag’s 50th anniversary.

All 2.55s made in 2005 came to be known as the 2.55 reissue.

The success of the 2.55 reissue led to the model being permanently reintroduced by Chanel after 2005 and all subsequent makes of the model are simply called the 2.55.

Here are three ways to distinguish between the 2.55 and the timeless classic flap bag:

1. By lock

This may surprise some folks but the 2.55 original and the reissue do not have the famous “CC” lock. That was invented by Lagerfeld.

The lock they sport is a rectangular one (above) called the “mademoiselle”, which was the creation of Coco Chanel herself. (In case you were wondering, she never married so that is why it is not named the “madame”).

The classic flap, on the other hand, does have the double-C on its lock.

2. By handle

The classic flap’s straps have leather interwoven between the chain links.

The modern-day 2.55 (made since 2005) has an all-chain strap.

Historically, 2.55s were made with both straps that had interwoven leather and full-chain ones.

3. By leather

The 2.55 uses distressed vintage calfskin.

The classic flap comes in “caviar” leather or lambskin which has a smooth appearance.

JUMPSUITS, PLAYSUITS AND JUMPERS

While these are all one-piece garments, they differ in length and style.

Playsuit (above)

This is also commonly known as a romper.

It is a loose, one-piece garment that combines a shirt or blouse and short, balloon-like pants.They are made of various materials.

Playsuits, as the name suggests, are mostly for casualwear and commonly made with lightweight materials like cotton and treated, thin denim.

Jumper:

This is an American term for a one-piece; sleeveless dress; or a skirt with straps around the waist and a complete or partial bodice, usually worn over a blouse.

It is also commonly known as a pinafore.

The British refer to jumpers as sweaters or pullovers.

Jumpsuit (right):

This is a one-piece garment usually combining a shirt or bodice with a pair of pants.

Historically, the jumpsuit was used by parachutists and skydivers but has come to be used as a common term for any one-piece garment with sleeves and trouser-length legs.

Modern-day fashion jumpsuits are made of luxe fabrics such as silk and satin and can be worn for dinner events or cocktail parties.

MEN’S DRESS SHOES

Oxfords, Monks, Derbies and Brogues are all traditional men’s dress shoes.

The easy way to work out which is which is to look at how they lace or fasten:

The Oxford

Oxfords have two flaps of leather with piercings for the laces which are stitched together at the bottom, as with the Louis Vuitton shoe shown above.

The Derby

Derbies are similar to Oxfords but are less formal because, as you can see on this pair from Bally (above), they have open lacing – leather flaps where the lacing holes are not stitched to the tongue at the bottom.

The Monk

Unlike the Oxford and the Derby, the Monk has no laces and is fastened by a strap with buckles, such as this pair from Bally.

Brogues versus brogueing

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brogues, also known as wingtips (left) in the United States, are shoes that have a Derby, or open, lacing and are fully-punched – from the toe cap, which comes in a W shape, to the heel counter.

Distinction must be drawn between brogues and brogueing.

The term brogueing refers to punched patterns along the seams and outer layers of the shoe upper.

Oxfords and Monks can sport brogueing patterns – like these Alfred Dunhill brogued Oxfords (above, right) – but do not qualify as brogues.

SEQUINS AND PAILLETTES

Both are disk-shaped beads used for decorative purposes.

They are available in a wide variety of colours and shapes and are commonly used on clothing, jewellery, bags and other accessories.

The main differences between the two are:

1. Country of origin

Sequins originated from Mediterranean countries and are small in size.

They are usually made of shiny, reflective material and are typically used to embellish fabrics that are used to make evening gowns or dresses (above).

Paillettes are from France.

2. Size

Paillettes are larger than sequins (as can be seen on this shoe, right) and are mostly shiny, although there are modern paillettes that are matte.

Unlike sequins, which can be sewn on entire dresses, paillettes are mostly used as decorative trim.

Paillettes are also arranged to form designs, images or patterns and to highlight or streamline specific areas on the dress.

BESPOKE AND MADE-TO-MEASURE

Most shoppers are used to going into a store, trying something on and buying it.

Some lucky fashion-lovers are able to fork out more money to buy bespoke and made-to measure suits and shirts.

They sound similar but there are key differences between the two.

Typically, a made-to-measure garment will be more expensive than a ready-to-wear garment but cheaper than a bespoke one.

Here are three reasons why:

1. Patterns

Bespoke suits are created without using a pre-existing pattern.

The pattern is drawn by hand and is not made ahead of time.

Collars and cuffs on bespoke shirts can be made exactly how you want them to be – down to the nearest centimetre.

Made-to-measure alters a standard-sized pattern to fit the customer.

The option to alter collars and cuffs is not available in made-to-measure shirts.

2. Machine-sewn versus hand-sewn

Bespoke tailors do every stitch by hand.

Made-to-measure garments can be both machine- and hand-sewn.

3. Number of fittings

More than one fitting is needed for bespoke suits.

The first is so tailors can take measurements to draw up a pattern that is unique to that customer – even posture is taken into consideration.

With made-to-measure, the first sitting is the only one, unless you need some alterations after the suit is made.

These do not qualify the suit as a bespoke one.

TIGHTS AND LEGGINGS

Both are leg-wear but you better know the long and the short of them if you do not want to make a style stumble.

Here are three ways to tell the difference between them:

1. Materials

Tights are usually made from nylon and often with lycra for better comfort and fit.

Leggings are made from cotton and are often not as stretchy as tights.

2. Durability

Tights are much thinner than leggings. You have to take more care of them if you want to keep them at their best.

Leggings, on the other hand, wear better and are more durable because of their thickness.

3. Sheer factor

Leggings may be worn as trousers because they are usually thick and opaque.
Tights are sheer, not to mention delicate.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.

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