M.C.L
HIS initials are M.C.L but minimalism is not his first name. Matthew Campbell Laurenza made his mark in the jewellery world with rich, ornate pieces inspired by the rich culture of India and his own semi-bohemian leanings.
His signature gemstones hand-set in sterling silver and then coated in enamel had already won a loyal following before hitting celebrity paydirt - luminaries like Miley Cyrus and Sarah Jessica Parker are said to be fans, while fashion-centric TV shows like Gossip Girl and Lipstick Jungle have also featured his designs. Now that his elaborate, wearable antiques are sold in more than 40 outlets worldwide including the likes of Harrods, Saks and Bergdorf Goodman, he is eyeing a string of flagship stores next, with the first of them opening at the freshly launched Ion Orchard. The Singapore flagship is a joint venture with local company The Canary Diamond which has another jewellery shop located at Delfi Orchard.
The Canary Diamond is managed by owner and principal designer Wiliam Lam, a jeweller with over 40 years of experience and four factories between Singapore and Hong Kong. The Canary Diamond will run M.C.L's South-east Asian operations and the brand marks its first foray into high end fashion jewellery. Laurenza reveals that a second M.C.L flagship not related to The Canary Diamond is due to open at The Landmark in Hong Kong later this year.
Why open flagship stores in Asia and not say, London or New York, where he is based? 'I think that Asians appreciate the experience of shopping in little boutiques because they feel their purchases reflect their own tastes,' he explains. 'Westerners on the other hand, rely heavily on the judgement of buyers from the big department stores, a culture that I don't see as quite so prevalent in Asia.' Laurenza also has an affinity with Asia, having spent several years after graduation in India, South-east Asia, Japan and Europe, where he learned about jewellery production and stone cutting. What he learnt now forms the foundation of his jewellery making process.
Of course, the celebrity appeal helps too. 'Young fashionistas like Miley like my designs because they make good statement pieces while older buyers like Sarah like the fact that they are designer jewellery boasting real jewels which is very rare in the market.' More importantly, his designs are highly affordable. Earrings go from US$100 to US$1,200 while bracelets cost between US$800 and US$6,000. Only necklaces go up slightly higher in price ranging from US$475 to US$30,000. Men are not left out either, although Laurenza eschews flamboyance for whimsy in his men's collection that boasts toy motifs. 'Unlike women who like standout pieces, men like to buy things that remind them of their childhood,' he says.
The men's collection will be available later in the year.
M.C.L is located at #03-20
Worn Free
NEVER mind being a slavish follower of brands favoured by celebrities. Why not just wear what they're wearing?
This is the idea behind Worn Free, a rock and roll t-shirt label with a mission to resurrect the coolest shirts of all time.
The label is brought into Singapore by the multi-label fashion and lifestyle METROX group, established in 2004 in Indonesia by Singaporean Freddie Beh. The group opened a METROX boutique at Ion Orchard last week to add to the 24 boutiques and 70 counters in Indonesia.
Launched in 2005, Worn Free reproduces original tees famously worn by rock legends such as John Lennon, Joey Ramone and Frank Zappa, although in more recent days it has added newer celebrities like actresses Jennifer Aniston, Teri Hatcher and Mischa Barton as well as singers such as Pearl Jam's Eddie Vedder and Keith Urban. Â Its appeal is said to go beyond being mere fashion statements but also because they represent a piece of iconic music history. The tag inside each shirt features either a photo of a rock star wearing the original shirt or a rendering of the design with information documenting its initial date, artist and venue. 'These are not simply copies of any old shirt worn by a rock singer, these are authorised replications of shirts worn by iconic rock singers during iconic moments,' says Mr Beh. Â Apparently, music fans are biting. Hard. 'Some of the t-shirts such as the John Lennon ones always sell out and even after we replenish them, they continue to sell out,' says Mr Beh.
'While I expect the same t-shirts from artistes like Lennon to do just as well in Singapore, I think given that the local music scene is more developed than it is in Indonesia, even the t-shirts based on smaller artistes will have a following.
Metrox is located at #B3-52
Paule Ka
MULTI-LABEL boutique Tyan is making a play for the big time by opening three stores at Ion Orchard - the new Vivienne Westwood Anglomania store that is within the Tyan boutique itself, as well as standalone boutiques for Vivienne Tam and Paule Ka. French label Paule Ka in particular, will take Singaporeans by storm, predicts Tyan's managing director Tan Beng Yan. 'Paule Ka's designs are very elegant and the slim silhouettes really suit Asian women very well,' she explains. Described as a blend of Hollywood glamour and French elegance, its founder/designer Serge Cajfinger was inspired by fashion of the 50s, which he adapts for contemporary women using modern fabrics and techniques. Celebrities subscribing to this aesthetic include Katy Perry, Duffy and Peaches Geldof. 'In France, many young actresses like wearing Paule Ka clothes - it makes them feel chic and glamorous,' says Cajfinger in an interview with BT Weekend. Mrs Tan adds that Tyan first tested the label's suitability by bringing a few pieces here for sale and the response was so overwhelming that she was convinced a monobrand boutique was the right idea. According to Mrs Tan, with a price range of $400 for a top to $3000 for an evening gown, Paule Ka has the added advantage of being relatively affordable. 'The reason why Paule Ka sells so well is because it is great value for money. The quality is comparable to any top, high-end fashion brand in the market but the price is a mere fraction. ' she says quite convincingly.
Agrees Cajfinger: 'Paule Ka clothes are affordable; we want to respect our customers proposing us a qualitative high-range product at a fair price.' For the brand, the store in Singapore was a no-brainer. 'For us, Singapore is an international capital where we do have to be,' says Cajfinger. 'It's an essential point of our development strategy in Asia.'
Paule Ka is located at #03-13
Christian Audigier
IF there's one designer who's made it his life's mission to promote street fashion, it would be Christian Audigier.
The French designer was not only responsible for popularising street brand Von Dutch, in 2004, he also licensed the rights to produce the high-end Ed Hardy clothing line in 2004 before starting his own line. The Christian Audigier label's bases its philosophy on its interpretation of various sub-cultures, where the style and flair of West Coast fashion meets the glitz and glamour of Europe.
 'Add a Los Angeles twist and the stunning imagery now so entwined within the brand and you have what is the heart and soul of Christian Audigier,' says a spokesman from the brand's headquarters. 'Our unique selling point is how Christian Audigier has truly bridged the gap between luxury runway glitz and street couture, making unique, fashion-forward designer apparel more accessible and desirable than ever before.'
The brand marked its first foray into South-east Asia when it opened earlier this week at Ion Orchard, a move that it feels will provide it with a platform from which to expand to the rest of the region.
 The almost 1250 sq feet boutique is the brainchild of US-based Singaporean singer Sun Ho - through her local fashion company SKIN Couture - who had previously brought into Singapore the first Ed Hardy flagship store (at The Heeren) outside of the United States. It will offer a wide range of apparel ranging from $155 for a t-shirt to $438 for a hoodie.  'Ed Hardy's success in Singapore showed that it was just a matter of natural progression to see the Christian Audigier label arrive in Singapore, given the growing demand for high quality and expressive street fashion wear,' explains Christian Audigier's boutique manager Lillian Cher.
If the celebrity accolades are anything to go by, Christian Audigier is certainly a good bet for those looking to be a 'standout star' as it boasts pop royalty such as the late Michael Jackson, Madonna, Usher (above) and Britney Spears among its fans. 'We are living in a generation where pop culture has a huge influence over our lives and celebrities play a big part in it,' says Christian Audigier's spokesman. 'Therefore our target audience is everyone who can appreciate street couture fashion and who take fashion cues from the celebrities.'
Christian Audigier is located at #B1-04
Steve Madden
YOU could say Steve Madden has come full circle - starting out as a teenaged stock boy in a New York shoe shop to becoming the creator of one of the country's top designer shoe brands.
Describing his shoes as 'a little bit classic, a lot rock n' roll', Madden has used music as a source of inspiration ever since he launched the brand in 1990. His favourite band, he says, is The Beatles.
'The Beatles have always been my favourite; they changed music as we know it forever,' he muses. 'As the times changed, so did their music, but they always stayed true to their sound. I definitely try to do this with my design.'
It comes as no surprise then that his celebrity fan base is filled with the pop crowd such as Lady Gaga (pictured here), Rihanna and Katy Perry.
He goes on to add that his shoes stand out from the crowd because they are 'fresh and fashion forward without breaking the bank.' Indeed, the prices are easy on on the wallet - women's shoes range from $100-$240 while men's range from $160-$350.
The Steve Madden boutique that launched at Ion Orchard last week is the brand's first flagship store in South-east Asia and is helmed by GRI Accessories Pte Ltd, the same people who run the Nine West shoe boutiques as well as Italian bag label Francesco Biasa. A second Steve Madden boutique is slated to open at Raffles City later this year.
'Singaporeans have a love affair with shoes, and we want to give them more choices,' explains GRI Accessories' regional general manager Nancy Chen. 'Steve Madden is a designer for real people - men and women who wear his products become fans for life.'
And so is Madden's passion for shoes a life long one. 'I've been working with shoes ever I was a kid,' he says. 'My job makes me happy, I am not sure a different one would.'
Steve Madden is located at #B2-12/13
This article was first published in The Business Times
