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Thu, Apr 02, 2009
Urban, The Straits Times
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Good as new
by Noelle Loh

Recessionistas, rejoice: When it comes to bags, old is new once more as designers update styles from past seasons to create fresh looks.

The likes of Hermes and Louis Vuitton have taken the load off models' shoulders by getting them to grip mid-sized totes and sling bags by the fingers, giving new meaning to the term 'clutch bag'. Designers Alexander McQueen and Nicolas Ghesquiere of Balenciaga, meanwhile, put chains and straps on box clutches and gave birth to the 'wristlet' - bags dangled from your wrists.

Labels like Prada and Bottega Veneta continued their rustic romance and used details like pleating, weaving and even wrinkling.

Last season's statement clutches now sport ornate embellishments that border on the realm of art.

Then, after seasons of structured bags, labels like Burberry to Mulberry have slackened bag silhouettes to bring slouchy totes back in vogue.

Urban checks out five of the biggest reworked bags looks - the bag-as-clutch, the wristlet, the ornamental bag, the slouch bag and bags with rustic details.

BAG-AS-CLUTCH

Here is the handle on how to work the season's clutch: get a grip on it.

At Louis Vuitton, Canadian model Taryn Davidson strolled down the runway, the top half of her Savane sling bag crushed firmly in hand. At Prada, Hungarian model Sophie Srej gripped her Nylon Jacq tote on its side as if it were the morning's papers.

Online fashion zine whowhatwear.com calls the bag-as-clutch look 'unexpected and cool'.

We say its two-in-one function alone makes it a trend worth clinching.

Optical illusion: The idea is to show that your clutch is really a full-sized bag, so steer clear of baby bags and show off the handles.

Do not stuff it: As with normal clutches, avoid overstuffing your bag - it is not only unsightly but makes it cumbersome to carry too.

Invest wisely: Re-create the look with more wallet-friendly carriers - all that rough handling is bound to leave creases and fingerprints on the surface.

Metallic faux snakeskin chain bag, $99, from River Island Plastiq handbag, $659, from
Anteprima Plastiq
leather handbag with metal chain, $4,350, from Yves Saint Laurent
Pleather handbag with fabric croc skin print flap, $59, from BagAge puffy leather tote, $399, from Robinsons woven PVC tote, $49.90, from Charles & Keith
Leather clutch bag with acrylic handle, $1,815, from Bally velvet clutch (handles hidden), $89, from Topshop python-skin handbag, $5,540, from Christian Dior

WRISTLET

Wrest for the wrist look.

While others were content with classic clutches, Balenciaga and Alexander McQueen slapped chains onto usually strapless purses so that they can be worn on the wrist like a bangle.

Harper's Bazaar UK promptly hailed the new wristlet as 'one of the most original accessories to come out this season'.

As much a statement piece as it is a savvy, hands-free pouch, here is one slap on the wrist that every fashionista would want.

It's a wrap: Dangle the strap from your wrist then wrap it around your fingers for a more elegant look - it makes your fingers appear longer.

Plain is boring: Look out for designs with interesting shape, texture or details or it could come off looking like a pencil case.

Size matters: The beauty of these bags lies in their dainty sizes. Too big and you will kill the look, not to mention your wrist.

Satin clutch with Chinese coin detail, $430, from Shanghai Tang cotton kimono print wrist pouch, $48.90, from Kokon Tozai leather shell-shaped wristlet by Blush Blush, $1,019, from Colette
Patent leather clutch, $99.90, from Guess Accessory Store ruched PVC wristlet pouch, $29, from Nu-roots PVC wristlet with embedded plastic toys, $25.90, from Dressing Time
fromStudded PVC wristlet, $29.90 FuncDeko faux snakeskin wristlet by Steve Madden, $120, from STGE perforated patent leather wristlet by Stella McCartney, $1,150, from On Pedder

ORNAMENTAL BAGS

Like fine art, the devil is in the details. Last season's statement bags were all about the weird and wacky but this spring/summer, the message, though more subtle, goes bold on accents.

At Roberto Cavalli, handbags were embellished with round leather bits and sequins to form a pretty patchwork garden. Fendi used handpainted silk rosettes for bag beauty in full bloom.

Mix and match: Pair your ornamental bag with equally elaborate clothes but make sure at least one element - colour, material or design detail - on both items match.

Handle with care: These intricately designed bags tend to get damaged easily so invest in a classic piece and reserve it for evenings and special occasions.

Cheap and cheery: Adorn plain, quirkily shaped bags - usually more affordable than ornate ones - with bows and brooches for an equally powerful fashion statement.

Faux leather diamante-studded egg bag, $79, from Missy Gin PVC tulip-shaped hobo, $49.90, from LushV PVC owl-shaped tote, $84.90, from FuncDeko
patent leather box sling bag, $955, from Bally PVC terrier-shaped tote, $39.90, from Dressing Time metal-encrusted leather evening bag by Rodo, $999, from Colette
PVC heart-shaped bag with gold-painted hardware, $63, from Topshop leather star-shaped wristlet by Betsey Johnson, $149, from Colette Plastiq wristlet with lacquered forest detailing, $359, from Anterprima Plastiq

RUSTIC DETAILS

Yield to the gentler side. While past seasons' bags tempted you to touch them with their biker chic details such as grommets, zippers and studs, the stance of spring/summer 2009's carriers is softer.

The trend of cowboy fringes, which first hit catwalks in a big way last season, continues its pull. Think thick, braid-like weaves at Miu Miu, Bottega Veneta's famous intreccio or interwoven leather, now bigger and better, or Prada's crumpled leather tote.

Said Style.com's Sarah Mower of the collection in which clothes bore the same dishevelled aesthetic: 'There is no one who can turn up the thermostat of subversive sexual provocation quite as high as Mrs Prada.'

Play it down: Keep your wild west-inspired look to just one piece - for example, your bag - to avoid looking contrived.

Complementary colours: To complete your fashion romance with all things rustic, match your bag with clothes in earth tones such as brown and beige and accent with spots of gold.

Fringe benefits: Rustic details usually have a more lasting, classic appeal than modern details like sequins and studs, making such bags a worthy investment.

Monochrome rattan weave doctor's bag, $133, from River Island PVC fringed tote with silver hardware, $96,
from Topshop
multi-coloured woven leather bag, $3,199,
from Balenciaga
PVC fringed bucket bag, $99.90, from Lush-V Rattan weave clutch with PVC panel, $159.90, from Guess Accessory Store leather tote with braid detailing, $2,370, from Miu
Miu
leather rosette tote by Valentino, $5,500, from On Pedder pleather tote with weave detailing, $89, from Myth leather sling bag with ruched
detailing, $629, from
alldressedup

SLOUCHY BAGS

While box clutches and It pocketbook handbags such as the Chanel 2.55 remain catwalk staples, there are those who decided to take a soft approach.

Dolce & Gabbana produced a super soft suede handbag that, if not for its sequined facade, would have made for a plush pillow.

The likes of Louis Vuitton and Givenchy churned out slouchy, round-bottomed hobos while Burberry made a patchwork raffia box tote that sagged slightly to go with its garden-themed collection.

International Herald Tribune's Suzy Menkes said of the last: 'Maybe (designer Christopher) Bailey... knows that city slickers whose companies go belly up may be spending time in the country.'

Rest and relax: Look out for materials such as cotton, light canvas and suede that are soft to the touch - the key is that the bag should sag on its sides even if it is in a box form.

Get a grip: Wrap the handles of the bag around your fingers and hold it low for some sexy, street appeal.

Get organised: Things can get messy inside so we suggest placing your belongings in little pouches.

Pleather hobo, $89, from Topshop cotton tote with keychain, $67, from River Island treated croc skin bag by Zagliani, $4,312, from The
Link
leather tote, $760, from Kipling faux snakeskin
messenger, $76, from Miss Selfridge
patent leather messenger, $919, from
Mulberry
patent leather tote with matching purse, $259, from Robinsons diamante studded PVC tote, $59.90, from Dressing Time pleather shoulder bag, $59, from Myth

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times.

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