Singapore - Undeterred by two creations in previous years that drew much flak, fashion designer Riyan Haffys has unveiled his third national costume for Miss Universe Singapore.
Ms Shi Lim, 25, this year's title winner, will don a shimmery green mermaid dress, complete with faux orchids and a big yellow fan, at the 62nd Miss Universe pageant in Moscow on Nov 9.
Mr Riyan, 23, decided to use orchids and an eye-catching yellow decoration reminiscent of sun rays. "The sun rays represent how Singapore has grown from its humble beginnings to a vibrant city."
His costumes for Miss Universe Singapore in 2007 and 2008 were largely panned. The first was a red and brown lace design inspired by Singapore's multiracial society. The second referenced the Merlion and was covered in white and silver "scales" made of PVC leather and plastic crystals.
"Although I thought my past designs were gorgeous, people said they were disasters," says Mr Riyan, who studied fashion design in Nanyang Academy of Fine Arts and Lasalle College of the Arts but did not complete his studies.
"The first was even compared to a getai costume. The criticisms hit me badly. This year, I wanted to come back and rewrite the past."
But some have compared the embellishments on the dress to a bird's plumage while others find the design too safe.
Mr Kenny Lim, 36, director and designer of home-grown fashion label Depression, says: "My first impression was, why does the national costume resemble a peacock? There are too many colours going on."
But Ms Jo Soh, 37, who runs local womenswear label Hansel, says it has its merits. "The strongest element is the sweetheart- neckline bodice, covered in orchid flowers... But the skirt and 'sunburst' need more embellishment to bring out the wow factor."
Unfazed, Mr Riyan says: "I'd not change anything; you can't please everybody."
Ms Penelope Pang, 44, director of Miss Universe Singapore organiser Derrol Stepenny Promotions, says she picked him after one of his evening gowns worn by a Miss Universe Singapore runner-up this year caught her eye. "I felt he should be given the chance to prove to us again that he can do it."
She says the costume is in progress. "There will be more embellishments to make it shine more on the international stage." This addresses the concern of designer Hayden Ng, 47, who says the dress "seems rather incomplete, with details that are too small to be seen on screen".
He is one of several past designers for Miss Universe Singapore costumes. He created the evening gowns from 2009 to 2011, and designed the national costume in 2011. The red silk number with embroidered flowers, inspired by a Peranakan wedding gown, was listed among the top 30 costumes for the pageant that year.
Some Singaporeans have mixed feelings too. Illustrator Sharon Yang, 23, cannot decide if the yellow fan looks more like an umbrella or a peacock's feathers. "Without the thing at the back, I guess the dress is pretty acceptable. But we can come up with something more creative than this predictable design."
For the national costume part of the Miss Universe pageant, contestants have been known to show up in flamboyant outfits, with elaborate headdresses and props.
Take, for instance, last year when Miss Curacao wore an eagle costume with wings that towered over her. Miss Panama paraded in a red and gold outfit with a big circular backdrop and headdress made of peacock feathers.
Fashion show producer Daniel Boey, 48, says: "There is a time and place to support young designers and this may not be it. Miss Universe Singapore represents the country and should be dressed by our top designers."
He cites last year's best national costume by China's famed couturier Guo Pei as an example.
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