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Wed, Mar 04, 2009
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Wu-Tang clan rises
by Cheryl Lim

ALL it took was just one white gown.

To be more specific, a one-shoulder chiffon ballgown with a ruched bodice, adorned with frilly appliques and Swarovski crystals.

Jason Wu, 26, a hitherto unknown designer, was suddenly thrust into the limelight when Mrs Michelle Obama decided to wear his creation on Inauguration Night.

Fashion editors and pundits lauded it. So did her husband.

The United States President said: “First of all, how good-looking is my wife?”, when she made her entrance in the white confection.

Wu was reportedly chilling out at home with pizza when he saw the US First Lady wearing his gown.

He famously said: “I found out when the whole world found out. I said, ‘It looks white. It looks like mine.’ I had a box of pizza and I nearly fell over. I was sitting there with my friends and they were screaming.”

Mrs Obama wore another of the Taipei-born designer’s dresses, a silk shift with hand-embroidered rosettes, last November in an interview with talk-show host Barbara Walters.

She also wore a magenta dress by Wu on the cover of this month’s Vogue.

Mrs Obama’s endorsement has launched Wu’s career. The Telegraph reported that his website, jasonwustudio.com, received four million hits a mere two days after the inauguration ball.

VIEW PHOTO GALLERY

An alumnus of the famous Parsons design school in New York City, he now has celebrity fans such as socialite Ivanka Trump and supermodel Amber Valletta.

They have all taken a shine to his signature style – elegant feminine jackets, floral prints and sheath dresses with nipped waists and teacup skirts that seem to belong to an earlier era, but with a modern twist.

He is the latest name in a global Asian phenomenon that has taken the fashion world by storm.

From iconoclasts like Issey Miyake – who turned pleats into a fashion mainstay – to Comme des Garcons’ Rei Kawakubo – who made deconstruction fashionable – Asian designers have made their mark on the runway since the 1970s.

So, can our fashion designers join their Asian-American brethren and achieve the same level of success one day?

Yes we can, but only if we first make it big overseas, says fashion stylist Steven Kong.

Originality is key and, in that respect, he credits Asian-American designers for their unique artistry.

Most importantly, he thinks that Singaporeans must learn to embrace their own designers the way Americans do their home-grown talents.

At the moment, he laments that “consumers here don’t want to pay $300 for a piece that isn’t a designer label”, and that’s why Singaporeans like Ashley Isham venture overseas to fulfil their dreams.

Five other Asian designers to watch

PETER SOM, 37
Background: Raised in San Francisco, the Chinese American was nominated for a Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Perry Ellis Award for Emerging Talent in 2002. The Parsons graduate was creative director at the American house, Bill Blass, until last July.
Style: Elegant, minimalist.
Expert quote: Ms Linda Fargo, Bergdorf Goodman’s senior vice-president for fashion office, said he is hitting “his stride in re-invigorating the spirit of Blass”.
Famous clients: Scarlett Johansson, Claire Danes.
Where to buy: Available at Saks in the US, but currently not sold here.

THAKOON, 34
Background: Born Thakoon Panichgul in northern Thailand, he graduated with a business degree from Boston University. He was a writer at fashion rag Harper’s Bazaar before going to Parsons. He launched his debut women’s line in 2004 to great acclaim.
Style: Asia’s answer to Calvin Klein, he makes neutrals, beiges and ochres hip again.
Expert quote: Ms Hilary Alexander, fashion director of The Telegraph, called his latest autumn/winter 09/10 collection “fireworks”.
Famous clients: Mrs Obama, Sarah Jessica Parker and Demi Moore.
Where to buy: Sold at Harvey Nichols in London and Barneys in New York, but currently not sold here.

DEREK LAM, 42
Background: Born in San Francisco, the Chinese American worked as Michael Kors’ assistant for 12 years and was promoted to head designer of the Kors line. The Parsons graduate debuted his own label in 2002. Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman snapped up his line.
Style: Feminine with understated, classic colours.
Expert quote: Fashion Week Daily hailed Lam’s autumn 09 collection as “the level of Ralph Lauren for classic American sportswear”.
Famous clients: Natalie Portman, Rachel Bilson.
Where to buy: Club 21, Four Seasons Hotel, #01-01. Prices start from $1,000 for a blouse.

PHILLIP LIM, 36
Background: Born in Thailand, the Chinese American grew up in southern California. He now heads his own label, 3.1 Phillip Lim. He won the CFDA Emerging Talent in Womenswear award in 2007.
Style: He designs girlish pieces, but in an effortlessly chic way.
Expert quote: Ms Linda Wells, editor-in-chief of Allure, said: “He is such a master of the great dress that you can wear in the summer and wear all summer.”
Famous clients: Rihanna, Britney Spears and Kate Hudson.
Where to buy: Club 21, Four Seasons Hotel, #01-01. Prices start from $600 for a top.

DOO-RI CHUNG, 36
Background: Born in New Jersey, the Korean American is another Parsons graduate. She debuted her label Doo.Ri in 2003. She also bagged Swarovski’s Perry Ellis Emerging Talent award and the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2006.
Style: Feted for her jersey dresses that drape and droop flatteringly on almost all female body types. Designed a limited-edition collection, Gap Design Editions, which is sold in Gap stores in the US.
Expert quote: Vogue called Chung’s new secondary line, under.ligne “another hit on her hands”.
Famous clients: Actress Molly Sims and tennis star Serena Williams.
Where to buy: Sold at Barneys and Bergdorf Goodman in the US, but is not available here.

 


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