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Wed, Jan 28, 2009
Urban, The Straits Times
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The new track suit
by Noelle Loh

If you think that catwalk fashion for men makes them look like they have just got out of bed, you are not dreaming.

Models for labels from Hermes to Lanvin strolled out in slouchy, sleepwear-inspired gear at the spring/summer 2009 shows last year.

The trend this season has refined that look to be casual yet classy.

When it first hit the catwalk last year, the look of lounging lads in rumpled-looking trousers prompted Jason Wilson of New York-based online fashion magazine Refinery29 to hail pyjamas as 'the new track suit'.

It was a wake-up call to a new trend on the men's fashion scene as it put to bed the structured lines and slim silhouettes that dominated catwalks from the early 2000s.

Bottega Veneta, for example, had opened its spring/summer show with a tousle-haired model in crumpled matching pinstripe shirt and pants worn with an unlined blazer. The final touch to the just-got-up look was that he clutched newspapers.

Hermes and Giorgio Armani, meanwhile, were more subtle and paired shirts with loose drawstring trousers.

Far from looking like he had just rolled out of bed, however, this season's dude in PJs looks masculine, classy and sensual.

Commentators such as Men.Style.com's Tim Blanks called it 'the most sophisticated version' of the formal-meets-casual look.

Urban takes a closer look at the bedroom-to-boulevard designs from six labels - Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Emporio Armani, Giorgio Armani, Hermes and Lanvin.

BOTTEGA VENETA GIORGIO ARMANI
Creative director Tomas Maier reportedly attributed his pyjama inspiration to his distaste for nudity in men's fashion. The result: unlined, plain-coloured or gingham print suits that oozed relaxed sophistication. Armani put more slack into his premium line, making drawstring trousers - the original PJ pants - his choice of bottoms and pairing them with soft jackets, shirts and tunic tops.
EMPORIO ARMANI HERMES
While most of his collection was more athletics-inspired than sleep-inducing - think board shorts and surf suit-inspired gear - Giorgio Armani paid tribute to the PJ trend with some pinstripe harem pants. Designer Veronique Nichanian created a casual luxe collection, putting her models in striped, loose drawstring pants paired with linen shirts or sweaters and sandals.
LANVIN DOLCE & GABBANA
Dutch designer Lucas Ossendrijver has made outfits men would want to curl up and sleep in with the likes of voluminous nylon coats and pants that he called "clothes with emotions". Pyjama-themed looks included a shirt and tie paired with silk drawstring trousers and a silk pinstripe suit worn with nothing but a shawl.

This article was first published in Urban, The Straits Times on Jan 23, 2009.

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