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Wed, Jan 28, 2009
The Business Times
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So hip it hurts
by Melissa Lwee

THE world watched, enthralled, as US president Barack Obama and his wife Michelle took centrestage at the Neighborhood Inaugural Ball in Washington on Tuesday. But for one young American designer by the name of Jason Wu, it was the night that made all his dreams come true. The First Lady's decision to wear the white, chiffon one-shoulder gown designed and handstitched by him for the event instantly propelled the otherwise unknown designer into international fame.

Although the proliferation of cult American labels has been a steadily growing trend over the last few years, there can be no denying that Mrs Obama has given the country's lesser-known designers a sudden push into the limelight. Fortunately, it is also possible to catch the American design fever in Singapore, thanks to a few boutique owners who have dared to go against the grain.

Looking to offer more cutting-edge, unique design alternatives outside of your Chanels and Guccis, these multi-label boutiques have been supplying local fashionistas with clothing from cool brands that otherwise would have never reached our sunny shores.

TriBeCa (Forum, The Shopping Mall), for example, has always been a big supporter of hip American labels.

'We have always had American labels in our store since our opening in 2002 (hence the name TriBeCa, as we hoped to reflect the mood and feel of that ultrahip district in New York),' says spokewoman Anne Yoon of the shop that stocks labels such as Geren Ford and Elizabeth & James. 'American labels are more affordable, casual and fun than their European counterparts. Although TriBeCa has expanded to include a range of British and French labels as well, American labels are still a mainstay in the store.'

The wearability and affordability of many American labels are also the main reasons why Icing On the Cake (a mini boutique inside The Nail Room at Holland Village) stocks a range of interesting American labels that changes every season, although staples such as Dallin Chase and Walter can usually be found there.

'I wanted to offer great wearable designs at a much more affordable price point as compared to the high-end brands so I looked for smaller designers,' says the store's owner Cindy Chua. 'I always look for designers who have trained at the bigger fashion houses such as a label I used to carry called Marie Marie, and the duo behind it used to work with Donna Karan so they understood women's forms very well, only they were younger and edgier designers.'

She admits, though, that educating the Singapore fashion public in the nuances of these more unknown labels has been difficult. 'The locals tend to be a bit more brand conscious so I had to convince my clients that it was OK not to buy a big brand name.'

However, industry players say that thanks to the Internet, images of what celebrities are wearing and steady support from local and foreign media for under the radar fashion labels, fashionistas here have become much more adventurous. The result is that the market for these labels is a booming one.

Monica Low, Owner of Inhabit (Palais Renaissance) who supported smaller American brands such as Alexander Wang and Philip Lim long before they made it big, agrees. 'The trend is definitely moving towards less showy and less flashy brands. A few years ago, the magazines were featuring only the big brands but now, they are giving more attention to under the radar brands,' she says. 'As the smaller fashion houses gain recognition, so do consumers become more accepting of them. The younger generation really know their stuff now. Take denim for example - in the past people were content with a pair of Levis, now even the kids in school come in looking for a pair of Habitual jeans.'

Stylist Daniel Boey who cites labels such as Tom Brown and Band of Outsiders amongst his favourites is a good example of a consumer who appreciates the qualities of these labels. 'I won't say I don't wear mass clothing,' he says. 'I do my fair share of shopping at River Island but I like to mix my clothes up and I don't like to buy boring stuff so these unique American cult labels get me excited.

Mr Boey, who frowns on the 'snobbishness' of European designers, adds, 'unlike the Americans who cannot be beaten in terms of marketing, the Europeans believe in the mantra that 'the more unwearable or avant garde my designs the more street cred I will have' but they've become a victim of their own vibe. If you can't sell your clothes, how can you count yourself as successful?'

'The new wave of American designers have managed to marry the commercialness of American designs and the European creative vibe and that's why I support them.'

Keep your eyes peeled for these

rag & bone
www.rag-bone.com
Inhabit, #B1-03 Palais Renaissance



FOUNDED in 2002 with the vision of making clothes that they and their friends would love to wear everyday, rag & bone has found fans amongst celebrities such as Gossip Girl's Blake Lively. Says Inhabit's owner Monica Low that stocks the brand, 'rag & bone embodies an understated kind of style that is rare in Singapore.'

Geren Ford
www.gerenford.com
TriBeCa, #01-18 Forum the Shopping Mall


SPOTTED on celebrities such as Fergie and Lauren Conrad, Geren Ford's classy designs are reminiscent of French labels that boast quality fabrics and finish but at a fraction of the price.

Current/Elliott
www.currentelliott.com
Inhabit


BEST known for their boyfriend jeans that have been spotted on celebrities like the OC's Rachel Bilson, Current/Elliott is touted as the next big denim label. Stylist Martin Wong recommends Current/Elliott: 'I recently bought a pair of the Boyfriend jean and it's amazingly beautiful. The baggy paper bag like design is very interesting but the denim is very soft and of good quality, definitely a label to look out for.

Elizabeth and James
www.elizabethandjames.us
TriBeCa



CO-DESIGNED by the Olsen twins Mary-Kate and Ashley since Fall 2007, this contemporary womenswear label epitomises the cool downtown girl look with easy to match separates and comfortable dresses. Says Mary-Kate Olsen: 'Ashley and I saw an opportunity to create a contemporary line that focuses on the details - such as buttons, lining and fit - in a different way and really elevate the standards of what is currently available in the marketplace.'

Myne
www.myne-la.com
Icing On The Cake, 92 Taman Warna


A FAVOURITE of the socialites in Los Angeles, the line features bold and colourful dresses, perfect for the ladies who want to stand out from the crowd by adding a splash of colour to their wardrobes.

Upper Playground
www.upperplayground.com
3, 47 Haji Lane



SINCE 1999, the San Francisco based Upper Playground has been recognised as a catalyst for the fusion of fashion with fine art. Fans of the progressive art movement appreciate the label's apparel and accessories that are designed by artists including Sam Flores, Jeremy Fish, Estevan Oriol, David Choe, and Alex Pardee.

This article was first published in The Business Times on Jan 24, 2009.

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