PARIS - Flower buds curled tight, unfurling frail petals to the tinkle of glass chimes: Issey Miyake's new Japanese designer on Sunday unveiled a poetic spring-summer look based on the life of a flower.

For his first collection for the Paris-based house, Yoshiyuki Miyamae sent out five groups of outfits - entitled bud, stem, petal, blossom and bloom - that each suggested a stage in the natural cycle.

Miyamae's chosen theme of growth and renewal was also intended as a message of hope to Japan following the trauma of March's earthquake.

Nude-coloured suits evoked a bud waiting to bloom, with deep pockets to hide hands away in, and jacket collars turned demurely up, under ornate head pieces that wrapped the hair entirely in fluffy yellow or pink.

Semi-transparent like a petal, flowing tops followed in pale single tones or later in patterns of yellow, blue and grey, above sporty leggings, with curvy cut out shapes and a stretchy strap hooked under the heel.

Petals were also suggested in ruffles and flounces, like on a sunflower yellow waistcoat worn over cropped pants.

As Miyake's flowers blossomed brighter, the palette shifted from daffodil and cornflower blue to bolder chocolate, orange and purple.

For the full bloom finale, sleeveless jumpsuits in shades of caramel had billowing capes that fluttered out behind as the models walked, fastened at the wrists and ankles, and worn under dramatic, sculpted headdresses.

In line with Miyake's original spirit, Miyamae said he paid close attention to fabrics, sourcing many of them in Japan, whether a high-tech triacetate-mix for the opener suits, or a traditional Kyoto print.