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Fri, Dec 05, 2008
The Star
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Cover up in style
by Vivienne Pal

HERE'S a question: How does one cover up completely for modesty's sake and yet still look good? Surely designing clothes for the fashionable yet devout Muslim woman is no mean feat.

Firstly, there is the need to ensure that the aurat (for the woman, it encompasses everything except the face and hands) is not exposed. Secondly, you don't want women to look like they're wearing shapeless sacks.

Thus, the Islamic Fashion Festival (IFF) was a much looked forward to event, especially since it's ultimate aim is to make Kuala Lumpur and Jakarta the hub of Islamic fashion.

The average fashion-conscious Muslim woman faces a daily chore of what to wear to the office and after. Obviously, this concern was at the top of the list, judging from the crowd of women checking out the lifestyle collection by Malaysian and Indonesian designers at the sixth Islamic fashion festival, held at the JW Marriott Hotel in Kuala Lumpur recently.

This was a more sober and practical collection compared to the couture creations of the Gala Dinner held the night before.

The designers showcased a collection of smart-casual, career wear, formal and even swimwear, in a variety of prints and colours.

While Malaysian designers showed a greater propensity for motif-driven fabric and beading, the Indonesians displayed a penchant for kerawang (embroidery), songket and circular applique.

Malaysia's Khadani's pastel pink print batik organza collection consisting of long tunic- and kaftan-inspired tops paired with flowing skirts or trousers presented a complementary contrast to Jarumas' semi-formal hand-drawn batik chiffon baju kurung-inspired designs in blue, green and turquoise.

Atim Agoy presented a career wear collection of long jackets, pantsuits, skirts and shirts that leaned towards solid colours while Aktif Bestari offered a selection of swimwear for mother and child. It seemed rather odd though that some pieces in the swimwear collection - composed of long tunic tops and snug long pants complete with cap - should be studded with shiny crystals ... that's swimming in style for you.

Meanwhile, the mother and daughter team at Sri Munawwarah provided a fashionable twist to garments for the pilgrimage with lots of bling and embroidery along the edges of all-white dresses, with the option of diamante- and crystal-studded black scarves.

Joining the fray in offering niche garments was Indonesian Itang Yunasz's collection of prayer wear. Itang presented a varied selection of all-white and elaborate telekong (head covers) with touches of embroidery and beading with matching bags and mats to boot!

Maia's Keranchang series of tunic and kaftan-inspired outfits in satin, chiffon silk and tulle featured sheer fabric over solid. Her prowess in the art of embroidery was clear; the collection was generously embellished with beautiful kerawang and shiny detailing.

Jeny Tjahyawati's focus was on elaborate headgear and sleeves, while Hannie Hernanto displayed an enthusiasm for circular applique on an aqua-coloured collection of matching tops and trousers.

The Islamic bridal wear collection saw a noticeably younger set of women in the audience.

Shahirah Boutique and Dezzaine Butik got the ball rolling for the Aroosah Showcase in aid of the Pahang Flood Relief Fund; frankly, both collections had a little too much going on with over the top elaborate head gears, puffed sleeves and gowns.

The guest designer showcase was no better, offering an overdose of dazzling white and shine, elaborate embroidery and head gear with splashes of colour thrown in for good measure.

Malaysians Carven Ong and Michael Ong thankfully both kept it sweet and simple.

Carven worked in his signature classic style with a bow at the back and pretty diamante clusters at the front, while Michael opted for a simple full-length jubah-inspired gown with intricate embroidery at the chest and frills at the sleeves.

Indonesia's Jovian Mandagie turned up the glam factor with a sexy form-fitting embroidered white number with a mermaid tail; hot on Mandagie's heels was Melinda Looi's creation in a glamorous swirl of lace and silk chiffon.

Treading off the beaten path was Calvin Thoo's fur wraparound and bubble skirt which looked right for a wedding in winter.

Merry Pramono from Indonesia presented a puffed songket skirt and short kebaya-inspired top with frills at the neck and sleeve ends. Melvin Lam, meanwhile, bagged the trophy for the largest and not so attractive headgear of all.

Ghea Panggabean, once again dazzled; her rendition of a long kebaya top and songket paired with a veil with gold embroidered trimmings was a treat. This was a personal favourite.

Unfortunately, there was a no-show from designers Datuk Tom Abang Saufi and Radzuan Radziwill. Well, there's always next year.

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