Jacques Polge, Chanel's master perfumer attempts to answer this in his latest creation − Bleu de Chanel - the first men's scent since Allure Homme Édition Blanche two years ago.
Polge said in an interview with StarTwo late last year that whenever he creates a fragrance for men or women he asks this question: "How much of the women's (scent) am I going to incorporate in a men's fragrance and vice versa?"
He said that in the early days of perfumery there was a clear and big difference between men's and women's perfumes but this distinction has blurred somewhat in recent times. Every brand has a gender association and while Chanel as a group is quite feminine, the men's fragrance has become quite important. "Men were afraid of fragrances because it was thought to be feminine. Now men are more comfortable but are still looking for masculine fragrances."
Polge fashioned Bleu to represent and give new interpretations of masculinity in this era.
That masculinity, according to Polge, refers to a man who is all about being free, is determined, who defies conventions, assumes his choices and is driven by action.
"A man in control of his destiny, who doesn't let others dictate his behaviour," he exclaims.
Chanel has engaged the services of no less a director than Martin Scorcese (the celebrated director of opuses such as Raging Bull, Taxi Driver, Goodfellas and New York, New York).
Up and coming French actor Gaspard Ulliel features in the commercial shot in New York.
Bleu is about mixing the traditional with new ingredients. This is represented by a new olfactory family, the woody aromatic which has never been represented in any of Chanel's men's fragrances until now. Woody notes are Polge's favourite for men's fragrances: sandalwood, vetiver and cedar.
It also introduces three new notes − bitter grapefruit notes; modern dry cedar that is the result of new research; and a ginger note that is quite unique to Chanel.
The top notes are a citrus accord of orange and lemon, followed by bursts of peppermint, pink pepper, nutmeg and vetiver. The middle notes are headed by dry cedar notes, grapefruit and labdanum. The base notes are sandalwood, frankincense and ginger.
Polge sees Bleu as being different because for him, men's fragrances these days have "frills" which is oriental or slightly floral, whereas this is direct and pure. - Available at Chanel's boutique in 1 Utama, Petaling Jaya and Chanel counters nationwide.
